Overview
Although the height of Ama Dablam is only 6812m, the Ama Dablam expedition requires steep ice, rock, and snow climbing. Normally, three camps are set in Ama Dablam climbing above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the nights. The normal route for climbing is South-West Ridge.
Ama Dablam Expedition is one of the most exhilirating adventurous activities in the Khumbu Region.
The mountain view, when spectated from below, is locally interpreted as an open arms of a mother (long ridges on either side) protecting her child. A large glacier – just at the right spot to make it look like a necklace, similar to local Sherpa women.
Ama Dablam popularly known as the ‘Matterhorn of the Himalayas’ is a beautiful mountain, located almost due south of Everest & Lhotse in the Khumbu region. It is an ice-coated steep pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges.
Ama Dablam forms a lasting impression on many trekkers in Nepal, as it is probably the most stunning mountain along the popular trekking route to Everest Base Camp. The first ascent of Ama Dablam was made in 1961 by the New Zealand and American expeditions team via South-West Ridge.
Our expedition can also be from the south-west route, a technical climb with three camps above base camp. The ascent usually is completed in less than four weeks. The climbing on this route involves pure rock climbing on exquisite granite followed by mixed snow and rock climbing. The last section to the summit involves ice climbing followed by a long steep snow slope. After a strenuous climb, you reach the top at the elevation of 6812m, mesmerising panoramic views of Everest, Makalu, Cho-Oyu, and many other unnamed peaks.
You will have the full assistance of our highly professional climbing guides who has previous experience of climbing the mountain plus they have skills and techniques to tackle every hurdle during the climb. With their support, you are one step closer to the summit.
Please visit our FAQs section for more information thank you.
Itinerary
After check-in in hotel and depending on your flight schedule, there may be an opportunity to explore the immediate vicinity of the hotel and get acclimatised to this bustling city, or you may prefer to recover from your journey by relaxing beside the hotel pool. Himalayan Memories Trek package services begin with the evening meal and Nepali cultural show.
Stay in Kathmandu for official procedure and other preparations.
Transfer to Airport where we check in for the 35/40 minutes flight to Lukla (2840m). Landing on the narrow, sloping runway in the heart of the mountains is a very spectacular way to reach the Khumbu. We have lunch at Lukla, and set off on the first stage of our trek to Amadablam Basecamp. The short and very pleasant afternoon’s walk leads down to the river then northwards through a number of villages to Phakding (2610m).
A very pleasant walk by the river through pine forest leads to a short climb to escape a narrow gorge section. We pass the entrance to the Khumbu National Park where details of our permits are recorded and then drop down again to the river which we cross on a suspension bridge. We continue up the wooded valley on a good trail and cross the river again before reaching a confluence of rivers, one coming down from Thame and the other from the Khumbu. We make a final crossing here on a spectacular high suspension bridge and then begin an hour and half long ascent to Namche Bazaar (3440m) on a wide switch-back trail. This is the sting in the tail of today’s otherwise quite gentle ascent, and one of the steepest of the trek. Just over halfway up this last hill to Namche, we gain our first views of Everest. On arrival in the Sherpa capital, we check into one of the town’s many lodges. Namche has changed tremendously since trekking first became popular in Nepal. The Sherpa people are very adept at working out what visitors need. Many of the Sherpa’s that own lodges, cafes and shops in the town have visited cities in the USA and Europe and have brought back all sorts of concepts. Today you can find in Namche, German bakeries, Italian coffee, British pubs and snooker- pool halls.
Namche Bazaar is tucked away between two ridges amongst the giant peaks of the Khumbu. An ancient market place where goods from as far away as Tibet were and still are traded, Namche today boasts an abundance of lodges, cafes, bars and souvenir shops. It is a great place to spend an acclimatisation day before going higher. The guide will be keen to take everyone on an acclimatisation walk, whether this involves going as high as the village of Khumjung, or just to the Everest View Hotel. Either of these options provides superb views of Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest. We spend a second night in Namche Bazaar.
Our trek will start with an incline to Syangboche airstrip and along the ridgeline towards Everest View Hotel. We are welcomed with magnificent views of the surrounding mountains including Everest, Lhotse, Thamserku, Khangtega, Ama Dablam and many more. After a quick break, we continue towards Khumjung and visit Sir Edmond Hillary’s famous “Schoolhouse in the clouds.”This school was the first in the entire Khumbu region being built in 1961 with the help of the Sir Edmund Hillary and the Himalayan Trust. The school originally opened with only two classrooms but has since expanded to cater for over 350 students. We descend and follow the trail for approx 25 minutes to Kyangjuma. For those who are feeling the early effects of altitude can opt for a shorter acclimatization walk of around 2 hours directly from Namche to Kyangjuma.
The walk to Pangboche is one of the most spectacular trekking days in Nepal. The trail meanders easily around the ridges and Everest can be clearly seen on the horizon ahead before we descend through splendid rhododendron forests for lunch. After lunch we cross the Dudh Kosi and begin the ascent to the top of a long ridge which flows from the summit of Kantega. Our trail takes us through pine and rhododendron forest, and, as this is a devout Buddhist region, the wildlife is unharmed and not too shy. As a result there is a possibility that we may see Himalayan Thar, Musked Deer or pheasants in the forest and around our campsite. As we approach the ridgeline we pass through a traditional gateway and around a chorten before cresting the ridge onto a wide grassy meadow at the monastery village of Thyangboche. The monastery was re-built with the assistance of Sir Edmund Hillary after it was destroyed by fire in 1989. The views of the Everest massif, as well as all the other major peaks of the area are astounding. Overnight in Pangboche.
After breakfast we visit the Pangboche village and 400 years old monastery, the oldest in the region. In the monastery, pray for a peaceful and safe expedition for all members. We will also request for a puja ritual, from the Monk at the monastery, to solicit the local deities for an obstacle less expedition. After the visit we take a beautiful and short trek to Ama Dablam basecamp. We arrive at basecamp for lunch. We will be greeted by our kitchen crew, climbing Sherpa guides and liaison officer. Our camp will be ready before our arrival so check-in into the tent assigned for you. After lunch we will briefly meet about the rest of the program, take our duffel bags into our tents for unpacking and further organisations.
Two days are at leisure to acclimatise your body. Our climbing guide team will do a thorough check of the climbing equipment, Oxygen bottles, masks and regulators, and the safety equipment’s.
Our basecamp members will do necessary preparations for the auspicious Puja ceremony at the basecamp – offering prayers to Ama Dablam for climbing permission and for the good weather.
From day 9 to summit and back to Kathmandu, due to the highly variable and dynamic conditions at these elevations, we will NOT have fixed itineraries as you have to coordinate and work with guide and Sherpa’s.
Our Sherpa guides using the latest weather condition and forecast devices, as well as their experience based intuition, are very focused on the weather windows and the best and optimum times for us to be on climb to next Camp or Summit bid.
After summit Ama Dablam and cleaned the basecamp our itinerary back to Kathmandu follow:
Day ?- Trek to Pangboche and to Phortse.
We descend to Pangboche village and take lunch. After lunch, we’ll set off for Phortse village, which offers a beautiful view of Thamserku and Kongde. Tourists less frequent the trail so one can see wild animals and the colourful national bird of Nepal. The magnificent mountain sceneries are in every direction. At Phortse village we check into the lodge. This village is one of the typical Sherpa villages of Khumbu region and offers an exceptional panorama containing Mount Amadablam, Kangthega, Thamserku and Kusum Kangru and Tengboche Monastery.
Day ? – Trek to Jorsalle – 5 hours trek.
We go down to Phortse Tanga and cross the river that flows from the Gokyo Valley, and then begin a steep climb to the hilltop to Mong-La. There we take tea-brake and enjoy the magnificent panorama once again. The trail further descends to Sanasa, below the Khumjung village, where we will make our lunch stop or one may continue further thirty-five minutes to Namche. From Namche, the trail directly drops to the Dudh Koshi River. We are getting back again to “European” altitudes as we descend towards the entrance to Everest National Park at Jorsalle, a pleasant place to spend a night after several days in height.
Day ? – Trek to Lukla 2,866m.
6 hours trek From Jorsalle the trail mostly follows the river. We retrace through some small Sherpa villages and arrive at Lukla. In Lukla, we spend our last night in the Khumbu Valley. This evening is the occasion to enjoy a farewell party with your Sherpa friends who have accompanied you.
Day ? – Fly to Kathmandu. Time for sightseeing and relaxing.
After saying goodbye to our Sherpa crew, we take flight to Kathmandu. Arriving in the bustling city by mid-afternoon, there is time to freshen up and change before heading into town to enjoy the particular delights of Thamel. In the evening we will get together with the guide for a celebratory dinner in one of Kathmandu’s popular restaurants.
Day ? – Free day in Kathmandu for sightseeing, shopping or relaxing.
This is an important contingency day in case of delays to the flights from Lukla. If we have experienced no delays this is a welcome opportunity to spend a day exploring amongst the colourful streets and temples of Kathmandu.
Day 24 – Transfer to Airport for final Departure.
It’s your last day in Nepal! Grab some breakfast, and then take in some last-minute shopping in Kathmandu. We’ll make sure you arrive at Kathmandu International Airport with plenty of time before your flight home. At this time, we’ll say our goodbyes and bid you farewell, armed with warm memories and gorgeous photos to show your loved ones.
“ROTATION FOR CLIMBING”
Rotation 1:
Climb up to Camp 1 and descend back to Basecamp.
Rotation 2:
Climb up to Camp 1 and spend overnight
Climb up to Camp 2 and descend back to Basecamp.
Rotation 3:
Climb up to Camp 1 and spend overnight.
Climb up to Camp 2 and spend overnight.
Descend back to Basecamp.
Summit Push:
Climb up to Camp 1 and spend overnight.
Climb up to Camp 2 and spend overnight -start climbing very early.
Summit and descend to Camp 2 overnight.
Descend back to Basecamp.
Note: The Itinerary may vary according to mountain conditions, weather patterns, and group abilities. The actual planning of the summit is made at the base camp by your climbing guide. The activities may change because of the unstable weather conditions in the Himalayas and also your level of fitness. We advise you to book a Flexi flight and allow extra days in case if you need for the summit push.
Cost Includes
- 1. Climbing government royalty fee of $400.
- 2. Liaison officer with flight, accommodation, meals and wages.
- 3. Garbage deposit fees of $1000.
- 4. National park fee.
- 5. Khumbu Municipality Rural development fee.
- 6. Route fixing charge for higher camps and to the summit.
- 7. Weather forecast report
- 8. International and domestic airport transfers.
- 9. 4 nights in a preferred hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast.
- 10. Welcome and farewell dinner in Kathmandu.
- 11. Return flight from Kathmandu to Lukla.
- 12. 2 X Himalayan Memories Trek Duffel bag per member.
- 13. Accommodation in a local lodge on full board.
- 14. Porters to carry trekking and expedition gears.
- 15. Guide and Sherpa during the trek.
- 16. Single tent per member with comfortable mattress.
- 17. Tent for all the staff.
- 18. Kitchen, Dining, Shower, toilet and communication tent.
- 19. Solar panel/generator for light and battery charging.
- 20. Gas heater for the dining tent.
- 21. 3 meals a day, snacks and unlimited tea and coffee on request.
- 22. Internet facility depending upon the network provider.
- 23. High tent on twin sharing for clients and staff.
- 24. 1 bottles of Poisk Oxygen for emergency.
- 25. Latest Mask and regulator for members and Sherpa & one extra for emergency.
- 26. High Altitude food for members and staff.
- 27. Enough Epi gas, gas stove and cooking pot set for Camp 1 and Camp 2.
- 28. Satellite phone for emergency and walkie-talkie for a member, Sherpa and basecamp.
- 29. Extra rope, carabiners, ice axe and ice screws.
- 30. Porterage of personal and group camping equipment
- 31. Expedition Staff Allocation & Cost.
- 32. Climbing Guide and 1 personal Sherpa (1:1 ratio) for the summit.
- 33. Cook and required number of kitchen porters at the basecamp.
- 34. Porters to carry camping equipment’s and supply food from Lukla to Basecamp.
- 35. Equipment’s, daily wages, carrying bonus and medical insurance for all the staff.
Cost Excludes
- 1. LUNCH AND DINNER IN KATHMANDU EXCEPT WELCOME AND FAREWELL DINNER.
- 2. BOTH WAY INTERNATIONAL FLIGHT AIR-FARE.
- 3. PERSONAL TRAVEL INSURANCE AND EMERGENCY RESCUE INSURANCE.
- 4. NEPAL ENTRY VISA FREE.
- 5. ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES.
- 6. FILMING PERMIT OF DRONE AND CAMERA.
- 7. EXTRA NIGHT ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU IF LATE DEPARTURE.
- 8. PERSONAL EXPENSES, LAUNDRY, WIFI CHARGE…..
- 9. STAFF TIPS (MINIMUM OF 5% OF YOUR TOTAL TRIP COST).
- 10. SUMMIT BONUS OF $600 FOR CLIMBING SHERPA. IF YOU NOT SUMMIT $300.
On your trek, every morning, you are awoken early by a Himalayan Memories Trek staff with a first cup of native tea or coffee, along with a bowl of warm water to freshen up. Next, you are served a full breakfast of local fare. Such as fresh fruit and vegetables where it is available. We mainly serve freshly made porridge, eggs, camp made breads etc.
While you have breakfast the Sherpa’s use this time to disassemble the tents, so make sure you pack all bags before sitting for breakfast. while some porters set off on the daily walk in order to make setups in advance of our arrival at the next stop/camp, so that when we get there, all you have to do is relax and enjoy the area.
Typically, our walks start soon after breakfast. After a couple of hours walk, we will stop for lunches. In general, the afternoon walk is shorter than the morning one, to give people time to visit neighbouring villages, to rest and to chat while the chefs prepare the supper.
“TRAINING ARE REQUIRE FOR CRAMPON AND BOTTLED OXYGEN USES”
AT YOUR HOME, BEFORE LEAVING TO JOIN TEAM HMT FOR HIMALAYAN ADVENTURES: WE RECOMMEND THE FOLLOWING:
1. CRAMPON ON LADDER PRACTICE:
* You will need:
(a)aluminium house ladder,any length, longer the better.
(b) crampons that you will use in the mountains.
(c)climbing boots that you will use in the mountains.
*Put on your crampons on your boots, grab your ladder and place it in the yard and PRACTICE walking back and forth on the ladder rungs.
Do the following:
1. One way walk over and step off ladder, turn and repeat.
2. turnarounds ON the ladder (rarely needed, but you never know and contingency preparation is always a good thing.
3. walk halfway or more over ladder, stop and reverse yourself back to where you started and step off. Repeat.
It is super important to have practice and feel confident on metal/aluminum ladders when crossing and climbing the crevasses and siracs on the Khumbu Icefall,
as well as ladders which may be placed on the routes on any mountains.
“BOTTLED OXYGEN (“O”) FAMILIARITY”
Himalayan memories trek advises you to please research (or read the articles that Himalayan memories trek will provide you after you sign up with Himalayan memories trek) on how to USE and BREATHE with O bottles to properly regulate and avoid waste and reduce the stress of uncertainty of using O out of a bottle. It’s like scuba diving, until you get comfortable with the breathing process, breathing itself can be unnatural and quite stressful when it comes from a tank on your back. The more you know, the easier the transition and use.
“VERY IMPORTANT MOUNTAIN BOOT AND CRAMPON GUIDE”
The following information is intended as a general introduction to the types of mountain boots available and their properties. If you are at all unsure which type of boot is appropriate for the trip that you are coming on then please do speak to us before buying or renting any kit.
“WHAT ARE CRAMPONS?”
Crampons are accessories that attach to your boots and are used for hiking. Most crampons require a special type of boot, or mountaineering boot. They do not make crampons for hiking boots (these are a totally different type of traction device). The reason is because crampons require a stiff-shanked boot in order to stay attached to your boot safely.
“BOOT GRADING FOR CRAMPONS”
Boots for any climb over snow and ice need to be of a type that will allow fitting of crampons. Boots are graded according to their compatibility with different types of crampon.
Boots graded B0 are not suitable for use with crampons the sole is not stiff enough to prevent them moving differently to the crampon with the result that the crampons will move around and may come off altogether. They are also not very stiff in their upper section and may not provide enough support to your ankle or enough rigidity to allow ‘edging’ of the boot in snow when not using crampons.
Boots Graded B1 are suitable for use with strap-on C1 crampons for use on moderate snow and ice conditions. They have fairly stiff soles so that the crampon does not loosen or come off as the boot flexes during walking. They are also fairly stiff on the upper part so that they provide good ankle support and allow edging in the snow when not using crampons. They are however not so stiff that they are too uncomfortable to walk in off the snow.
Boots Graded B2 are suitable for use with C1 or C2 crampons. C2 crampons have a clip lever at the back and therefore require the boot to have a protruding shelf at the heel for the end of the heel lever to engage with. The boots have a stiffer sole than B1 boots and will help to keep the crampon in place on moderate mountaineering climbs. Some B2 boots are still flexible enough to be used on an approach walk although this is very dependent on the materials and construction of the upper.
Boots Graded B3 are suitable for use with technical C3 crampons. The boot is fully rigid and allows the crampon to be used on more technical climbs (where there is likely to be sustained use of the crampon’s front points) without the crampon loosening. B3 boots are likely to be very uncomfortable for approach walks and trekking as they are rigid and often heavily insulated.
On all climbs or treks where crampons will be used, your boots will need to be rated at least B1 or B2 for use with crampons. If you choose to purchase your own crampons prior to the trip please ensure that you take your boots to the shop and ask a suitably experienced person to check the fit of the crampons with the boot. Some combinations of boot and crampon do not provide a good match and can lead to poorly fitting crampons and consequent problems on the mountain. If you are planning on using overboots to upgrade the warmth of a boot you will also have to check carefully if the crampon will be secure. You may need to cut out sections of the overboot to align with heel or toe bails.
“BOOT GRADING FOR WARMTH”
Aside from allowing the fitting of crampons, another very important consideration when choosing your mountain boots is that of warmth. For anything other than technical climbing, this is likely to be the over-riding factor in your choice of boot. Different types of boots are constructed differently, with different materials and built up in layers. Usually, on warmer boots, the layers are able to be separated into an inner and outer boot. This helps as it allows you to warm/dry the inners and also to wear them inside the tent.
It sounds obvious when it is pointed out, but it is not just the ambient air temperature that is an issue. If you are walking on snow, your feet lose heat through the sole of your foot into the cold ground. This is made even worse if the snow is not hard packed, as you may be ankle or even shin-deep in the stuff and your whole foot and lower leg may be conducting heat to the snow. Therefore, it is also the condition of the mountain that affects which boots are needed, aside from just the altitude or location.
Inevitably, the warmer the boot the more volume and bulk it has to it and usually the more expensive it is too. Using a boot that is too warm can be as problematic as having one that is not warm enough. It will lead to excessive sweating which is uncomfortable and can ultimately lead to greater chance of blisters, cold feet or even frostbite- when you stop working hard, the sweat conducts warmth away from your feet, or can even freeze.
Above the snowline there are four main options, in descending order of warmth:
1- ‘Triple-Boots’ for 8000m or very cold peaks. such as Millet Everest, La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Scarpa Phantom 800. These are constructed with inner boot, shell and super-gaiter.
2- ‘Plastics’ like the Scarpa Omega or Vega, preferably with a high altitude rated inner boot for warmth. These are a double-boot with a shell and a liner boot. These can also be upgraded with an overboot.
3- ‘Hybrids’ like the La Sportiva Spantik or Scarpa Phantom Guide which are a double or even triple boot but the outer boot is not solid plastic so that it can be more dextrous and comfortable. This may also need to have its warmth upgraded.
4- ‘4-Season’ boots like Scarpa Charmoz or Manta; these are what you would commonly use in winter conditions.
If you are buying expensive boots for an expedition it is strongly recommended that you visit a specialist retailer with trained staff, proper foot-measuring facilities (length & width) and a wide range of brands and models. This will allow you to try out a range of different boots before committing to one.
Another important thing is to take the exact socks that you will wear on the trip with you to the shop. You need to try the boot on with the right sock as this can make a huge difference to the volume and comfort of the fit. Good shops will have also have some simulated terrain so that you can walk up and downhill in the boots. When you get home, wear the boots around the house for a few days, walk up and down the stairs etc. Most shops will allow you to exchange boots within a certain time period as long as they haven’t been used outside.
When fitting your boots, you often need to go up a half size or so from what you would buy in a normal shoe. This will allow for thick socks and some extra space as your feet swell at altitude. Generally, on high mountains, you are walking very slowly and deliberately and will not experience the same amount of movement that you would with a hiking boot. However, you do need to ensure that when walking you do not experience any ‘heel-lift’ inside the boot and that there is sufficient space around your toes for you to wiggle them. Any tighter than this and it is likely that they will either rub and give you blisters or be so constricting as to restrict the blood supply and lead to cold toes.
Note! that certain boot brands commonly produce boots of a certain shape, ie. a narrower or wider fit. If your feet are of a certain shape it is worth identifying the most appropriate manufacturer for you. Some manufacturers such as Scarpa have ‘thermos-fit’ liners for their plastic boots; these are heated in an oven and then put on with special toe-spacers, the liner then moulds to the shape of your foot and when it has cooled it stays in that shape. When the toe-spacer is removed it leaves some space for your toes with the rest fitting snugly. You will need to go to a shop with this facility to get this done properly.
“BELOW SNOWLINE AND APPROACH BOOTS”
Below the snowline, it is possible to use B-0 graded hiking boots, make sure they are worn in, but not worn out, and have good ankle support. However, a good solution for smaller peaks is to use a B1 or B2 Four-Season boot which can then be used on the peak too. This means that you don’t need to bring another set of boots.
As soon as you book your trip with Himalayan Memories Trek you should purchase a policy which covers trekking upto 5500m this will cover you any unexpected events force you to cancel. Your policy should also cover helicopter rescue in the event of an emergency evacuation.The only two methods of travel mostly are on foot or by helicopter once in the mountains. Obviously certain medical conditions are either so debilitating or urgent that the first option is not practicable as an evacuation method. Helicopter evacuation is very expensive and is also dependent on favourable weather conditions. Many of the helicopters are working at the limit of their operating altitude in the higher parts of the valley. Himalayan memories trek will be well placed to coordinate an efficient rescue but we must stress that there is no single definitive cost for a helicopter rescue, much depends on what else the pilot is doing in the area, how far the helicopter has to fly, where it started from and so on. The maximum is about $10,000 so your travel insurance should cover up to this figure specifically for rescue costs. The helicopter company will require a payment guarantee before they fly, this will be done by your insurance provider, opening a case number and arranging the relevant exchanges of information and certification. For this purpose, it is essential that you have the right policy and provide us with all the policy details. Our staff have got mobile phones and generally, there is somewhere near with a phone signal, or else one of the staff will go to the nearest place. The safety and stability of the injured person is the job of the group and the staff and anyone nearby who can assist because sometimes it can take hours for a helicopter to arrive. Thankfully many of the trails have first aid posts along the way, but every group should be prepared to help deal with an injured person and in this case, it goes without saying that the needs of that person are more important than the trek itinerary.
It will be a matter of the helicopter company ascertaining that it is safe to fly to the relevant location and then flying the casualty to a nominated location, almost certainly a hospital in Kathmandu. The helicopter will then be met by Himalayan Memories trek who will help to coordinate any further stages in the process. The helicopter will also fly into Kathmandu airport and our staff will arrange for a car or ambulance to take the person to the hospital. If for any reason the helicopter is unable to fly we will use our many local staff and contacts to coordinate an alternative rescue and treatment regime. Normally this means using horses or simply stretchering a person off the mountain to the nearest safe place or safe helicopter landing area. Again, this is something that will generally involve everyone.
Our treks allow a good time to acclimatise and as a mountain guiding outfit we always want to ensure the trek is safe. Reducing the number of days may make the price cheaper but the chances of safely reaching base camp also greatly reduce. We follow established mountaineering principles of height gain on all treks to altitude.
“Himalayan Memories Trek advisory equipment list”
A full detailed kit list will be issued to expedition members with suggestions on current manufacturers and models where required.
(Feet)
High altitude double boots for above Camp 2
Alpine boots for up to Camp 2
Base Camp boots
Casual Shoes
Crampons 12 point
Socks – thick woollen ones and hiking
(Head)
Neoprene facemask
Balaclava or buffs
White sunhat with neck cover
Goggles with 100% UV lens
Sunglasses with 100% UV lens
Woolly hats
Climbing helmet
(Hands)
Windstopper gloves and fleece gloves,
Down mitts – heavyweight and lightweight
Liner gloves
(Skin)
SPF50 Sunscreen (mandatory)
SPF50 (98% UV bock) please apply repeatedly to exposed skin at higher camps. most of the expeditions are at extreme altitudes where it is presumed that it will always be “freezing cold”, there are spots on Everest where wind blockage “valleys” exist where there is no wind and the sun’s radiation can make for extremely hot “beach-like” conditions,
Dermatone high altitude suncream
SPF25 lipcream
Moisturising cream
Lipsalve
Base Layer
Thermals tops and bottoms, thin and thick
(Mid layer)
Fleece bottoms
Fleece tops
Gilet or light down jacket
Hiking clothes
(Outer layer)
Windsuit
Down jacket – heavy duty
(at least 800 down is recommended for Basecamp)
complete downsuit with an oxygen mask compatible collar, such as the Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero Down Suit on Backcountry.com ($1,200), be purchased for this climb.
Windproof trousers and jacket, or salopettes
(Climbing)
Ice Axe
Harness
‘Cows tail’ with jumar and safety karabiner
Descender (figure of 8 easiest)
Selection screwgate karabiners
Selection long and short slings
Spares Bags
90 litre rucksack
45 litre daysack
Large duffle bag
Many stuff sacks and dry bags
(Camping)
5 season down sleeping bag (above BC)
4 season down/synthetic sleeping bag (BC)
1 litre metal flasks
Nalgene water bottles with insulating cover
Rucksack cover
Headtorch with batteries, high quality (and spare headtorch)
Walking poles
Thermarest
Closed cell sleeping mat
Thermos food flask
Thermal mug
Titanium spork
Towel
Box of repair kits
Leatherman
Pee bottle
Alarm clock
Personal first aid kit
Wash kit
1) Go slowly and take a full day for the hike rather than get there as fast as possible.
2) Drink lots of liquid.
3) Always give way to yaks right of way and when you meet one on a path with a drop to one side, always stand on the uphill side.
4) Don’t get caught out with inadequate clothing to cope with a rapid change in weather This is the high Himalaya and a clear bright morning does not mean the same in the afternoon.
5) Do not wander off by yourself and always make sure people know where you are. Anything can happen and a slip on scree or moraine can mean getting cold very quickly while waiting for someone to come and help.
6) Part of the trek is on lateral moraine and some places are slippery. There is no need for crampons but simple care where you are walking is important.
7) Remember that the best approach to safety is to prevent an accident happening in the first place.
(Personal first aid kit contents)
Paracetamol
Ibuprofen
Antiseptic Wipes
Adhesive Plasters
Blister Plasters
Zinc Tape
Insect Repellent
Antihistamine tablets
Sunblock Cream
Water Purification Tablets
Crepe Bandage
Hydrocortisone Cream
Your main item of luggage should be a sturdy kit bag, duffel bag or similar. This will be carried during the trek by porters or pack animals and must weigh no more than 15kg. You should also bring on your holiday a day-pack of approximately 30 litres capacity. It is possible to leave items not required on trek at the hotel in Kathmandu. For your international flights, please check the baggage allowance with your airline.
Approximately $700 (or equivalent in pound Sterling, Euros) changed into local currency, should be allowed for miscellaneous expenses including porter and trek crew tips, drinks etc. It is not necessary to obtain local currency prior to departure. Pound Sterling, US Dollars and Euros are equally acceptable for exchange in Nepal. We recommend that you carry your travel money in the form of cash, since you will exchange the majority of this on the day of your arrival in Kathmandu. If you prefer not to carry all of your spending money in cash, it is possible to withdraw money from ATM’s in Kathmandu using your debit or credit cards. (Fee applies) During the trek it is possible to buy snacks, chocolate, soft drinks and beer on most days. Please be aware that since everything has to be carried up by porters or animals, these items become more expensive as you gain altitude.
Tipping is the accepted way of saying thank you for good service. Normally the porters and any other trek staff are given their tips at the end of the trek and this is best done as a group. Your Guide will advise the group on an appropriate level of tipping. Most groups will hand out the tips with a bit of ceremony (or sometimes a party) on the last evening, to mark the end of the holiday. we recommend that each group member contributes around 5 to 10 % of your total trip cost to these tips. At the end of their trek many people also like to donate various items of equipment to the porters and trek staff who work so hard to make the trip a success. Boots, gloves, hats, scarves and even socks are always warmly received by the porters. Your guide will make arrangements for a fair distribution (possibly by raffle) amongst the trek crew. Please note that you will have the opportunity to tip your guide separately during dinner on the final evening of the holiday. If you felt your guide was especially helpful, please consider an appropriate bonus to him or her of 20% of group tips.
Our prices are competitive and good value, and we offer quality, service, security and an ethical stance on tourism in a developing country. We don’t want to be so expensive to run fewer trips and have our staff idle, but on the other hand we believe that running cheap trips that promote the practice of skimming budgets would result in the porters getting next to nothing, which is something we cannot consider. Your porters work extremely hard to carry your gear, advance set ups and keep your journey safe and enjoyable, sometimes at their own risk and peril. We could not complete our journey without them. They have families, too, and we all want to have an enjoyable, rewarding expedition full of great memories! Tashi Delek!