Our climb to the summit of Mount Everest is for experienced climbers. The government of Nepal ruled that all climbers seeking to Climb Mount Everest must have previously Climbed a Nepalese Mountain with a height of 21,325 ft (6,500 m) or higher before getting a permit.
However Team Himalayan Memories Trek provides experienced Sherpa support, supplemental oxygen, base camp and high camp equipment and logistics. Our aim is to provide a safe and enjoyable mountain experience for those people who are ready to climb Mount Everest.
The ratio of Sherpa to climbing member is always 1:1, The acclimatisation plan is a tried and tested regime which has the flexibility to accommodate the expected bad weather periods and many variables that affect any summit attempt on an 8000 metre mountain. We can offer, and highly recommend, Island Peak as an optional obvious warm up, plus Lobuche as a slightly harder option for an additional fee.
The summit cycle is preceded by several trips to sleep at Camp 2 but bottled oxygen is used first when sleeping at Camp 3. Clearly the objective danger of the Ice fall and avalanche risk at Camp 1 cannot be avoided, but it can be mitigated by operating safe rules of travelling at night and using fixed lines correctly, and always following the instructions, information and advice provided by your Sirdar or Sherpa partner.
We offer a fully supported expedition for climb teams with appropriate experience that should preferably include either at least one 8000 metre peak or a good CV which includes (7000m) peaks and a variety of multi-day mountain expeditions at high altitude. We look for people who can show a personal track record of quality mountaineering and development of good mountaineering practice and skills, and a high level of self-sufficiency and self-management.
For full detail about training,fitness and equipment list please visit our FAQs section thank you.
- Small but active team!
- Highly Qualified Sherpas & Guide!
- Well-Appointed Base Camp Facilities!
- Highest Peak in The World (8848.86).
- Advanced communication & Weather forecasting!
After landing at the Kathmandu airport, Himalayan Memories Trek representative will take you to the hotel. We then check-in at the hotel, freshen up, and take a rest. In the evening you will have details briefing for your expedition along with Nepali cultural program and welcome diner.
Transfer to Airport where we check in for the 35-40 minute flight to Lukla (2840m). Landing on the narrow, sloping runway in the heart of the mountains is a very spectacular way to reach the Khumbu. We have lunch at Lukla, meet our sherpa team and set off on the first stage of our adventure. The short and very pleasant afternoon’s walk leads down to the river then northwards through a number of villages to Phakding (2610m).
A very pleasant walk by the river through pine forest leads to a short climb to escape a narrow gorge section. We pass the entrance to the Khumbu National Park where details of our permits are recorded and then drop down again to the river which we cross on a suspension bridge. We continue up the wooded valley on a good trail and cross the river again before reaching a confluence of rivers, one coming down from Thame and the other from the Khumbu. We make a final crossing here on a spectacular high suspension bridge and then begin an hour and half long ascent to Namche Bazaar (3440m) on a wide switch-back trail. This is the sting in the tail of today’s otherwise quite gentle ascent, and one of the steepest of the trek. Just over halfway up this last hill to Namche, we gain our first views of Everest. On arrival in the Sherpa capital, we check into one of the town’s many lodges. Namche has changed tremendously since trekking first became popular in Nepal. The Sherpa people are very adept at working out what visitors need. Many of the Sherpas that own lodges, cafes and shops in the town have visited cities in the USA and Europe and have brought back all sorts of concepts. Today you can find in Namche, German bakeries, Italian coffee, British pubs and snooker – pool halls.
Namche Bazaar is tucked away between two ridges amongst the giant peaks of the Khumbu. An ancient market place where goods from as far away as Tibet were and still are traded, Namche today boasts an abundance of lodges, cafes, bars and souvenir shops. It is a great place to spend an acclimatisation day before going higher. The guide will be keen to take everyone on an acclimatisation walk, whether this involves going as high as the village of Khumjung (3780m) above Namche, or just to the Everest View Hotel. Either of these options provides superb views of Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest. We spend a second night in Namche Bazaar.
A relatively easy day of trekking, although at this altitude it will still feel tough on the uphill section to Thyangboche at the end of the day. The trail today is spectacular in terms of scenery. The main trail out of Namche heads in a northwesterly direction climbing steeply out of the town to a ridge crest where a wonderful view of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam is revealed. Our trail now follows a contour high above the river with occasional short climbs as we cross a series of ridges. At the end of this contour trail is the tiny settlement of Kangjuma where various items of local art and craft, jewelry and even yak bells are laid out to entice passing trekkers to buy a souvenir of their visit. From Kangjuma the trail descends to a bridge across the Imja River at Phunki. Beyond the river, we climb a long ridge to Thyangboche (3860m), the location of one of Nepal’s finest monasteries. We have the chance to look around the monastery and the visitor centre there. This is a popular place to overnight as it not only affords a good view of the Everest/Lhotse massif but is also the classic viewpoint for Ama Dablam. However, water is scarce here and the lodges are often crowded so we may opt to continue for a further 20 minutes, descending to a lodge beside the river at Deboche.
After breakfast we trek for a couple of hours to the village of Pangboche, where there is the oldest monastery in the Khumbu. An hour beyond Pangboche, there is a good lunch stop at the small Sherpa hamlet of Shomare and then it is a further 3 hours walking, gaining height very gradually, to Dingboche (4410m) at the entrance to the Khumbu Valley. We overnight in one of the relaxing lodges in this small and picturesque Sherpa village.
In accordance with our careful program of acclimatisation we will spend two nights at this altitude before moving further up the Khumbu valley. We make a day hike up to the fantastic viewpoint of Nangkartshang Peak (5083m). This will be a tough climb at this stage of our acclimatisation but well worth it for the sensational views of Kangtega, Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Lobuche Peak and Taboche. For the most part this is just a walk up peak with some minor scrambling to reach the final rocky summit.
The walk today follows the Khumbu Valley and climbs to the tiny settlement at Thukla where we may decide to take a break for a leisurely lunch. Shortly thereafter, we reach the memorial to those climbers who have died on Everest. Here, the trail starts to level out, following the lateral moraine on the west side of the Khumbu Glacier to Lobuche (4910m) opposite the towering pyramids of Nuptse and Lhotse.
After breakfast we begin by following a trail through the ablation valley at the side of the Khumbu Glacier gaining height steadily. At this point the glacier is still hidden from us by the moraine, but as we climb to cross the rubble of a tributary glacier, we can see the great Khumbu Glacier stretching away down valley and also up towards the area of base camp. Beyond this tributary we reach an island of sparse grasses below the famous hill known as Kala Pattar. Overnight in Gorak Shep (5140m).
Our final approach to Everest Basecamp follows the moraine crest on the west side of the Khumbu Glacier, before dropping down onto the glacier itself. The path on the glacier changes continually due to the movement of the glacier. We pass over rocky dunes, moraine and streams before arriving at the inspirational Everest Basecamp, beneath the stupendous Khumbu Icefall. Once here we will feel the excitement of expeditions who are looking to summit and the anticipation of the race in a couple of weeks time. We have set up our own camp here close to the many other Everest climbers.
From day 13 to summit and back to Kathmandu, due to the highly variable and dynamic conditions at these elevations, we will NOT have fixed itineraries as you have to coordinate and work with guide and Sherpa’s.
Our Sherpa guides, using the latest weather condition and forecast devices, as well as their experience based intuition, are very focused on the weather windows and the best and optimum times for us to be on climb to next Camp or Summit bid. However the expedition is organised just over 8 weeks from early April to early June, using 4 high camps as well as our base camp setup.
The traditional Everest Base Camp is always a crowded place and sits on active ice which moves and melts around the tents during the course of the expedition, so Himalayan Memories Trek will camp slightly further down the valley where there is more sun and the ice does not move this makes for a much more comfortable experience and place to call home for next few weeks.
Due to the unstable nature of the Khumbu Glacier moving ice-fall, Himalayan Memories Trek intends to minimise the amount of time members and Sherpa’s spend here, so we will spend more time on Labuche and the surrounding peaks during acclimatisation.
We will place an emergency tent and equipment at Camp 1 at the top of the ice fall, however this camp has an inherent avalanche danger so members are encouraged NOT to stay here.
Our first trip into the Khumbu Ice-fall will therefore be directly to camp 2 (6400m) where we will spend two nights before continuing up to camp 3 (7200m) on the Lhotse face. Here we spend one night acclimating before heading down to camp 2 for another night, before returning down to base camp.
The summit push is of course weather dependent, but will take place over 7 consecutive days from base camp, with brief stop at camp 4 at around (7950m) on the way up.
The next 4/5 weeks will be spent making a number of exploratory climbs to Camp 1 through the Khumbu Ice-fall, and then to Camp 2, where it is important to spend several nights. Weather and adaptation to the altitude will determine the exact days when the team climbs and rests. Carries of personal gear can be made while the Sherpa’s are putting in all the main equipment up to the high camps.
During this time we also acclimatise by climbing another peak in the locality, such as Lobuche East or Island Peak. There is at least one visit to Camp 3 for an overnight. It will be a good chance to test the body’s response to very high altitude. For most people Camp 3 is the highest point they will reach without the use of bottled oxygen,
After visiting Camp 3, there is generally a rest at Base Camp or lower to have a proper rest, in preparation for the summit bid.
Once the decision has been made to attempt a summit in a period sometime around the middle two weeks of May (statistically this is fairly normal, but people have been to the summit before and after), then the total summit cycle from base to summit and back is normally 8 days which allows for a few nights at Camp 2 and then one night at Camp 3. The ascent to Camp 4 on the South Col of Everest becomes part of the summit ascent itself, since normally teams arrive mid-afternoon and rest until about 10 pm when fresh oxygen bottles are used to go up to the Balcony and join the south east ridge.
The summit morning can be beset with problems of overcrowding, in particular on the rocky step (also known as Hilary’s Step) below the South Summit. Generally group order is determined by mutual agreement amongst the company guides but this is not always workable. It is not uncommon to find yourself moving very slowly behind a large group or a slow individual with no possibility to overtake. This leads to cold and excessive use of resources like oxygen. At the Balcony there is generally a change of bottles which gives an opportunity for a change in group order.
From the Balcony to the South Summit there is not much opportunity to overtake, although some groups will set up their own fixed lines to one side of the main one. It can be confusing and frustrating. Experience and a steady hand here will be very important. that it is easy to get euphoric at this time and lose concentration at this point, because you’re “almost there!!”, but focus is a MUST still because the drop offs on BOTH sides in this section are deadly and that you will be clipped in all the way from Hilary Step until you step off on to summit, By sunrise we would want to be at or below the South Summit, with another two hours in hand to reach the top.
The route to the Hillary Step is narrow and exhilarating, and inevitably on a good weather day there will be a queue at the bottom of the step, and here there is no choice but to wait. The Step could be rocky or covered in snow, and it normally takes only about twenty minutes to negotiate. From there the final two hundred metres to the summit are an easy walk. The aim is to arrive mid morning leaving the whole of the rest of the day to descend back to Camp 4 and rest. Some strong teams wish to get down to Camp 3 but this is not acceptable if it leaves the Sherpa’s left high with a huge amount of work to do.
“COMING BACK FROM EVEREST”
A few days spent back at base camp helping to clean up the camp is followed by a trek back to Lukla and a flight to Kathmandu. Or choose to charter a helicopter, which is fine but we do feel that it is important to help the Sherpa’s clean up the mountain and not just leave. Common courtesy and respect would suggest that everyone chips in with the break up of camp, it is far more enjoyable and should be seen as part of the trip and the experience. It takes a long time to process and assimilate an experience like this.
ROTATION FOR THE CLIMBING:
Climb halfway to Camp 1 the Khumbu Glacier and Return to Base camp
Climb to camp 2 Spend overnight and descend to Base camp
Rest day at Base camp
Climb to camp 2 spend overnight
Touch camp 3 and descend to Camp 2 (overnight) or Camp 3 (overnight)
Descend to Base camp
Rest and prepare for the summit push
Climb to camp 2 (overnight) start at 5 am
Climb to Camp 3 (overnight) start at 9 am
Climb to Camp 4 start at 4 am reach by 1 pm rest for 5/6 hours – start for summit at 8 pm
Climb overnight at reach summit around 6-7 am and descend to Camp 4
Descend to Camp 2
Descend to base camp.
Note: The Itinerary may vary according to mountain conditions, weather patterns, and group abilities. The actual planning of the summit is made at the base camp by your climbing guide. The activities may change because of the unstable weather conditions in the Himalayas and also your level of fitness. We advise you to book a Flexi flight and allow few extra days in case if you need for the summit push.
- 1. Everest climbing government royalty fee of US$ 11,000
- 2. Government liaison officer.
- 3. Garbage deposit fees of US$4000.
- 4. Everest National park fee.
- 5. Khumbu Municipality Rural development fee.
- 6. Route fixing charge for Icefall and higher camps to the summit by SPCC & EOA.
- 7. Summit certificate from Department of Tourism after the summit.
- 8. Weather forecast report.
- 9. All International and domestic airport transfers
- 10. 4 nights in a 5 Star hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast
- 11. Welcome and farewell dinner in Kathmandu
- 12. Return flight from Kathmandu to Lukla
- 13. 2 x Himalayan Memories Trek Duffel bag per member
- 14. Accommodation in a local lodge on full board breakfast, lunch & dinners.
- 15. Porters to carry trekking and expedition gears.
- 16. Guide and Sherpa during the trek
- 17. Single tent per member with comfortable mattress
- 18. tent for all the staff.
- 19. Kitchen tent, Dining tent,Shower tent ,toilet tent, and communication tent.
- 20. Solar panel/generator for light and battery charging
- 21. Gas heater for the dining tent
- 22. 3 meals a day, snacks, and unlimited tea and coffee on request.
- 23. Internet facility depending upon the network provider.
- 24. Brand new high tent on twin sharing for members and all the staff.
- 25. 7x bottles of Poisk Oxygen for members.
- 26. 3x bottle Poisk Oxygen for Sherpa
- 27. 1x bottle Poisk Oxygen for Emergency
- 28. Latest Mask and regulator for member, Sherpa & one extra for emergency
- 29. Kitchen tent for Camp 2
- 30. High Altitude food for members and staff.
- 31. Enough Epi gas, gas stove, and cooking pot set for Camp 1,Camp2,Camp3 and Camp4.
- 32. Satellite for emergency and walkie-talkie for a member, Sherpa, and basecamp
- 33. Extra rope, carabiners, ice axe, ice screw
- 34. Porterage of personal and group camping equipment
- 35. Helicopter charge for supplying fresh meat, fruits and vegetables from Kathmandu
- 36. All staff Allocation and Cost
- 37. Expedition Manager, Climbing Guide and 1 personal Sherpa (1:1 ratio) for the summit
- 38. High Altitude Cook for Camp2
- 39. Cook and required number of kitchen porters at the basecamp
- 40. Porters to carry camping equipment’s and supply food from Lukla to Basecamp
- 41. Equipment’s, daily wages, carrying bonus and medical insurance for all the staff.
- 1. International Flights.
- 2. Personal Insurance
- 3. Personal equipment/climbing gear/vaccinations
- 4. Nepal visa
- 5. Additional oxygen bottles ($1200 each)
- 6. Costs associated with an expedition finishing early or you leaving an expedition early.
- 7. Costs associated with extending a trip due to bad weather or other circumstances including the cost of extra nights accommodation
- 8. Summit day bonus for the Sherpa guide $2000 per sherpa.
- 9. Staff tips (MINIMUM OF 5 to 10% OF YOUR TOTAL TRIP COST)
On your trek, every morning, you are awoken by a Himalayan Memories Trek staff with a first cup of native tea or coffee, along with a bowl of warm water to freshen up. Next, you are served a full breakfast of local fare. Such as fresh fruit and vegetables where it is available. We mainly serve freshly made porridge, eggs, camp made breads etc.
While you have breakfast the Sherpas use this time to disassemble the tents, so make sure you pack all bags before sitting for breakfast. while some porters set off on the daily walk in order to make setups in advance of our arrival at the next stop/camp, so that when we get there, all you have to do is relax and enjoy the area.
Typically, our walks start soon after breakfast. After a couple of hours walk, we will stop for lunches. In general, the afternoon walk is shorter than the morning one, to give people time to visit neighbouring villages, to rest and to chat while the chefs prepare the supper.
It is a requirement of the permit for all members to have adequate insurance to cover all eventualities up to the summit of Mount Everest. It will be important to cover trip cancellation due to unforeseen circumstances, and rescue and repatriation from Base Camp which costs Around $10,000.
Please note: that there are no official rescue operations above base camp!!
The only two methods of travel mostly are on foot or by helicopter once in the mountains. Obviously certain medical conditions are either so debilitating or urgent that the first option is not practicable as an evacuation method. Helicopter evacuation is very expensive and is also dependent on favourable weather conditions. Many of the helicopters are working at the limit of their operating altitude in the higher parts of the valley. Himalayan memories trek will be well placed to coordinate an efficient rescue but we must stress that there is no single definitive cost for a helicopter rescue, much depends on what else the pilot is doing in the area, how far the helicopter has to fly, where it started from and so on. The maximum is about $10,000 from Everest base camp (for example) Itself, so your travel insurance should cover up to this figure specifically for rescue costs. The helicopter company will require a payment guarantee before they fly, this will be done by your insurance provider, opening a case number and arranging the relevant exchanges of information and certification. For this purpose, it is essential that you have the right policy and provide us with all the policy details. Our staff have got mobile phones and generally, there is somewhere near with a phone signal, or else one of the staff will go to the nearest place. The safety and stability of the injured person is the job of the group and the staff and anyone nearby who can assist because sometimes it can take hours for a helicopter to arrive. Thankfully many of the trails have first aid posts along the way, but every group should be prepared to help deal with an injured person and in this case, it goes without saying that the needs of that person are more important than the trek itinerary.
It will be a matter of the helicopter company ascertaining that it is safe to fly to the relevant location and then flying the casualty to a nominated location, almost certainly a hospital in Kathmandu. The helicopter will then be met by Himalayan Memories trek who will help to coordinate any further stages in the process. The helicopter will also fly into Kathmandu airport and our staff will arrange for a car or ambulance to take the person to the hospital. If for any reason the helicopter is unable to fly we will use our many local staff and contacts to coordinate an alternative rescue and treatment regime. Normally this means using horses or simply stretchering a person off the mountain to the nearest safe place or safe helicopter landing area. Again, this is something that will generally involve everyone.
1) Go slowly and take a full day for the hike rather than get there as fast as possible.
2) Drink lots of liquid.
3) Always give way to yaks right of way and when you meet one on a path with a drop to one side, always stand on the uphill side.
4) Don’t get caught out with inadequate clothing to cope with a rapid change in weather This is the high Himalaya and a clear bright morning does not mean the same in the afternoon.
5) Do not wander off by yourself and always make sure people know where you are. Anything can happen and a slip on scree or moraine can mean getting cold very quickly while waiting for someone to come and help.
6) Part of the trek is on lateral moraine and some places are slippery. There is no need for crampons but simple care where you are walking is important.
7) Remember that the best approach to safety is to prevent an accident happening in the first place.
It is a requirement to be in a state of peak physical fitness for this expedition, and this normally requires a nine to six month lead-in time. An exercise regime which incorporates cardiac strength with training on all the major muscle groups, in particular the thighs and calf’s, and the back. Regular hill-walking with a pack on is the best exercise, building up the miles over time and carrying larger packs to a maximum of 15 kilograms. The optimum schedule will be to use smaller weights with increased repetition, all the time checking recovery rates.
As important, if not more so, is the mental preparation for a trip like this. Climbing Mt Everest is a tough expedition on the mind, and also for the people you leave behind at home. Be prepared for a roller-coaster of emotions, long days of inactivity followed by short periods of extremely strenuous activity. Boredom, loneliness and missing home are common feelings, and it is impossible to maintain a continual feeling of elation and anticipation for so long. This is where maturity, patience and a love of just being in the mountains is so important. Every day is an experience and must be taken as just that, the summit will be a bonus and a process of cumulative good decision-making and luck.
We recommend that you slow down the intensive physical training about a month before the expedition, it would be a shame to have an accident like a strained muscle in the few weeks before the expedition. Then, when you arrive in Nepal, the trek in to base camp will establish a good level of mountain fitness, and then the first weeks climbing up to Camp 1 and Camp 2 will provide necessary acclimatisation and continued fitness.
We offer a fully supported expedition for climb teams with appropriate experience that should preferably include either at least one 8000 metre peak or a good CV which includes 7000m peaks and a variety of multi-day mountain expeditions at high altitude. We look for people who can show a personal track record of quality mountaineering and development of good mountaineering practice and skills, and a high level of self-sufficiency and self-management.
One of the best parts about being in the Himalaya is enjoying the company of the Sherpa people. With their own language, culture,cuisine, and lifestyle, these hearty mountain folks are some of the most welcoming ethnic groups in the world. Mostly residing in eastern part of Nepal, this ancient culture was once nomadic, travelling the Himalayan mountains between Nepal and Tibet. Today, most Sherpa’s have a home village, although it is not uncommon to see them live in the high alpine environment for the tourist and climbing season, then head to warmer temperatures in the lower mountains over winter.
The most famous Sherpa village is arguably its oldest, Tengboche in the Khumbu Region. The Sherpa people are primarily Buddhist and Tengboche is home to one of the world’s highest monasteries. Mostly known for their incredible mountaineering skills, Sherpa believe in community and a harmonious existence with the land. Furthermore, their architecture is quite stunning, especially when you realise that everything is brought in by beast of burden or on foot. Most buildings are made of stone and have ornately painted windows, with special attention to colourful details.
The valleys throughout the Nepalese Himalaya are well trodden and the approach routes to these peaks have many villages where you can enjoy local hospitality and buy stores. Nowadays mountain tourism has made its mark though, and it is important to tread lightly in these fragile environments. Waste management is a problem in the Himalayas, and It is up to the visitors to set a good example.
A full detailed kit list will be issued to expedition members with suggestions on current manufacturers and models where required.
High altitude double boots for above Camp 2,Alpine boots for up to Camp 2,Base Camp boots,Casual Shoes,Crampons 12 point ,Socks – thick woollen ones and hiking
Neoprene face-mask,Balaclava or buffs,White sunhat with neck cover,Goggles with 100% UV lens,Sunglasses with 100% UV lens,Woolly hats,Climbing helmet
Wind-stopper gloves and fleece gloves,Down mitts – heavyweight and lightweight,Liner gloves
SPF50 Sunscreen (mandatory)
SPF50 (98% UV bock) please apply repeatedly to exposed skin at higher camps. most of the expeditions are at extreme altitudes where it is presumed that it will always be “freezing cold”, there are spots on Everest where wind blockage “valleys” exist where there is no wind and the sun’s radiation can make for extremely hot “beach-like” conditions,
Dermatone high altitude sun-cream
SPF25 lip-cream,Moisturising cream,Lip-salve
Thermals tops and bottoms, thin and thick
Fleece bottoms,Fleece tops,light down jacket,Hiking clothes
Wind-suit,Down jacket – heavy duty
(at least 800 down is recommended for Base-camp)
complete down-suit with an oxygen mask compatible collar, such as the Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero Down Suit on Backcountry.com ($1,200), be purchased for this climb.
Windproof trousers and jacket, or salopettes
Ice Axe,Harness,’Cows tail’ with Jamar and safety karabiner
Descender (figure of 8 easiest)
Selection screw-gate karabiners
Selection long and short slings
90 litre rucksack
45 litre daysack
Large duffle bag
Many stuff sacks and dry bags
5 season down sleeping bag (above BC)
4 season down/synthetic sleeping bag (BC)
1 litre metal flasks
Nalgene water bottles with insulating cover
Head-torch with batteries, high quality (and spare head-torch)
Walking poles,Thermarest,Closed cell sleeping mat,Thermos food flask,Thermal mug,Titanium spork,Towel,Box of repair kits,Leather man,Pee bottle,Alarm clock,Wash kit
Personal first aid kit:
(Personal first aid kit contents)
Paracetamol,Ibuprofen,Antiseptic Wipes,Adhesive Plasters,Blister Plasters,Zinc Tape,Insect Repellent,Antihistamine tablets,Sunblock Cream,Water Purification Tablets,Loperamide tablets,Rehydration Sachets
Personal Medication as required:
e.g Anti-Malarial, Asthma Inhalers, Insulin, Epi-Pen,Lip Salve,Throat Lozenges,Latex gloves,Crepe Bandage,Hydrocortisone Cream,Prochlorperazine tablets (for sickness/nausea),Ciprofloxacin tablets (general antibiotic; prescription required),Acetazolamide tablets also known as Diamox (altitude prophylactic; prescription required)
There is no better alternative to experience of being at altitude than to have done previous expeditions on high mountains and understand the very specific demands it makes on the body, and how your individual metabolism reacts and performs in a hypoxic atmosphere.
Your ability to work at altitude will depend on having a good idea of how you yourself can deal with it, and this takes personal knowledge of other 8000 metre peaks or at least around 7000 metres. Clearly being physically fit enables the body to more easily convert oxygen to energy, which is important in the thin air at altitude. Mental acuity is greatly affected by being at altitude, so again personal experience is vital.
It is also worth mentioning however that climbing with supplementary oxygen, breathing at around 3 litres per minute, the net elevation of the summit of Everest (in terms of physiological impact) drops to around 7000m, which clearly makes a significant difference in terms of physical and mental resources on summit day. Oxygen provides the body with warmth, mental ability and physical strength, but this is still a very big challenge where mistakes can be costly.
Some people have reactions to foods at altitude, and some people suffer from mood swings and obviously lack of sleep which causes its own issues. All of this and more justifies the need to have adequate experience for a trip like this.
YOU MAY REQUIRE TRAINING FOR CRAMPON AND/OR BOTTLED OXYGEN USES!
AT YOUR HOME, BEFORE LEAVING TO JOIN TEAM HIMALAYAN MEMORIES TREK FOR HIMALAYAN ADVENTURES: WE RECOMMEND THE FOLLOWING:
1. CRAMPON ON LADDER PRACTICE:
You will need:
(a)aluminium house ladder,any length, longer the better.
(b) crampons that you will use in the mountains.
(c)climbing boots that you will use in the mountains.
Put your crampons on your boots, grab your ladder and place it in the yard and PRACTICE walking back and forth on the ladder rungs.
Do the following>>
1. One way walk over and step off ladder, turn and repeat.
2. turnarounds ON the ladder (rarely needed, but you never know and contingency preparation is always a good thing.
3. walk halfway or more over ladder, stop and reverse yourself back to where you started and step off. Repeat.
It is super important to have practice and feel confident on metal/aluminium ladders when crossing and climbing the crevasses and staircases on the Khumbu Icefall,
as well as ladders which may be placed on the routes on any mountains.
“BOTTLED OXYGEN (“O”) FAMILIARITY”
Himalayan memories trek advises you to please research (or read the articles that Himalayan memories trek will provide you after you sign up with Himalayan memories trek) on how to USE and BREATHE with O bottles to properly regulate and avoid waste and reduce the stress of uncertainty of using O out of a bottle. It’s like scuba diving, until you get comfortable with the breathing process, breathing itself can be unnatural and quite stressful when it comes from a tank on your back. The more you know, the easier the transition and use.
The following information is intended as a general introduction to the types of mountain boots available and their properties. If you are at all unsure which type of boot is appropriate for the trip that you are coming on then please do speak to us before buying or renting any kit.
(WHAT ARE CRAMPONS?)
Crampons are accessories that attach to your boots and are used for hiking. Most crampons require a special type of boot, or mountaineering boot. They do not make crampons for hiking boots (these are a totally different type of traction device). The reason is because crampons require a stiff-shacked boot in order to stay attached to your boot safely.
(BOOT GRADING FOR CRAMPONS)
Boots for any climb over snow and ice need to be of a type that will allow fitting of crampons. Boots are graded according to their compatibility with different types of crampon.
Boots graded B0 are not suitable for use with crampons the sole is not stiff enough to prevent them moving differently to the crampon with the result that the crampons will move around and may come off altogether. They are also not very stiff in their upper section and may not provide enough support to your ankle or enough rigidity to allow ‘edging’ of the boot in snow when not using crampons.
Boots Graded B1 are suitable for use with strap-on C1 crampons for use on moderate snow and ice conditions. They have fairly stiff soles so that the crampon does not loosen or come off as the boot flexes during walking. They are also fairly stiff on the upper part so that they provide good ankle support and allow edging in the snow when not using crampons. They are however not so stiff that they are too uncomfortable to walk in off the snow.
Boots Graded B2 are suitable for use with C1 or C2 crampons. C2 crampons have a clip lever at the back and therefore require the boot to have a protruding shelf at the heel for the end of the heel lever to engage with. The boots have a stiffer sole than B1 boots and will help to keep the crampon in place on moderate mountaineering climbs. Some B2 boots are still flexible enough to be used on an approach walk although this is very dependent on the materials and construction of the upper.
Boots Graded B3 are suitable for use with technical C3 crampons. The boot is fully rigid and allows the crampon to be used on more technical climbs (where there is likely to be sustained use of the crampon’s front points) without the crampon loosening. B3 boots are likely to be very uncomfortable for approach walks and trekking as they are rigid and often heavily insulated.
On all climbs or treks where crampons will be used, your boots will need to be rated at least B1 or B2 for use with crampons. If you choose to purchase your own crampons prior to the trip please ensure that you take your boots to the shop and ask a suitably experienced person to check the fit of the crampons with the boot. Some combinations of boot and crampon do not provide a good match and can lead to poorly fitting crampons and consequent problems on the mountain. If you are planning on using over-boots to upgrade the warmth of a boot you will also have to check carefully if the crampon will be secure. You may need to cut out sections of the over-boot to align with heel or toe bails.
(BOOT GRADING FOR WARMTH)
Aside from allowing the fitting of crampons, another very important consideration when choosing your mountain boots is that of warmth. For anything other than technical climbing, this is likely to be the over-riding factor in your choice of boot. Different types of boots are constructed differently, with different materials and built up in layers. Usually, on warmer boots, the layers are able to be separated into an inner and outer boot. This helps as it allows you to warm/dry the inner and also to wear them inside the tent.
It sounds obvious when it is pointed out, but it is not just the ambient air temperature that is an issue. If you are walking on snow, your feet lose heat through the sole of your foot into the cold ground. This is made even worse if the snow is not hard packed, as you may be ankle or even shin-deep in the stuff and your whole foot and lower leg may be conducting heat to the snow. Therefore, it is also the condition of the mountain that affects which boots are needed, aside from just the altitude or location.
Inevitably, the warmer the boot the more volume and bulk it has to it and usually the more expensive it is too. Using a boot that is too warm can be as problematic as having one that is not warm enough. It will lead to excessive sweating which is uncomfortable and can ultimately lead to greater chance of blisters, cold feet or even frostbite- when you stop working hard, the sweat conducts warmth away from your feet, or can even freeze.
Above the snowline there are four main options, in descending order of warmth:
1- ‘Triple-Boots’ for 8000m or very cold peaks. such as Millet Everest, La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Scarpa Phantom 800. These are constructed with inner boot, shell and super-gaiter.
2- ‘Plastics’ like the Scarpa Omega or Vega, preferably with a high altitude rated inner boot for warmth. These are a double-boot with a shell and a liner boot. These can also be upgraded with an overboot.
3- ‘Hybrids’ like the La Sportiva Spantik or Scarpa Phantom Guide which are a double or even triple boot but the outer boot is not solid plastic so that it can be more dextrous and comfortable. This may also need to have its warmth upgraded.
4- ‘4-Season’ boots like Scarpa Charmoz or Manta; these are what you would commonly use in winter conditions.
If you are buying expensive boots for an expedition it is strongly recommended that you visit a specialist retailer with trained staff, proper foot-measuring facilities (length & width) and a wide range of brands and models. This will allow you to try out a range of different boots before committing to one.
Another important thing is to take the exact socks that you will wear on the trip with you to the shop. You need to try the boot on with the right sock as this can make a huge difference to the volume and comfort of the fit. Good shops will have also have some simulated terrain so that you can walk up and downhill in the boots. When you get home, wear the boots around the house for a few days, walk up and down the stairs etc. Most shops will allow you to exchange boots within a certain time period as long as they haven’t been used outside.
When fitting your boots, you often need to go up a half size or so from what you would buy in a normal shoe. This will allow for thick socks and some extra space as your feet swell at altitude. Generally, on high mountains, you are walking very slowly and deliberately and will not experience the same amount of movement that you would with a hiking boot. However, you do need to ensure that when walking you do not experience any ‘heel-lift’ inside the boot and that there is sufficient space around your toes for you to wiggle them. Any tighter than this and it is likely that they will either rub and give you blisters or be so constricting as to restrict the blood supply and lead to cold toes.
Note! that certain boot brands commonly produce boots of a certain shape, i.e a narrower or wider fit. If your feet are of a certain shape it is worth identifying the most appropriate manufacturer for you. Some manufacturers such as Scarpa have ‘thermo-fit’ liners for their plastic boots; these are heated in an oven and then put on with special toe-spacers, the liner then moulds to the shape of your foot and when it has cools it stays in that shape. When the toe-spacer is removed it leaves some space for your toes with the rest fitting snugly. You will need to go to a shop with this facility to get this done properly.
(BELOW SNOWLINE AND APPROACH BOOTS)
Below the snowline, it is possible to use B-0 graded hiking boots, make sure they are worn in, but not worn out, and have good ankle support. However, a good solution for smaller peaks is to use a B1 or B2 Four-Season boot which can then be used on the peak too. This means that you don’t need to bring another set of boots.
Your main item of luggage should be a sturdy kit bag, duffel bag or similar. This will be carried during the trek by porters or pack animals and must weigh no more than 15kg. You should also bring on your holiday a day-pack of approximately 30 litres capacity. It is possible to leave items not required on trek at the hotel in Kathmandu. For your international flights, please check the baggage allowance with your airline. All climbing equipment should pack separately as you will receive it in base camp.
It is not necessary to obtain local currency prior to departure. Pound Sterling, US Dollars and Euros are equally acceptable for exchange in Nepal. We recommend that you carry your travel money in the form of cash, since you will exchange the majority of this on the day of your arrival in Kathmandu. If you prefer not to carry all of your spending money in cash, it is possible to withdraw money from ATM’s in Kathmandu using your debit or credit cards. (Fee applies) During the trek it is possible to buy snacks, chocolate, soft drinks and beer on most days. Please be aware that since everything has to be carried up by porters or animals, these items become more expensive as you gain altitude.
Tipping is the accepted way of saying thank you for good service. Normally the staff are given their tips at the end of the trek and this is best done as a group. Your Guide will advise the group on an appropriate level of tipping. Most groups will hand out the tips with a bit of ceremony (or sometimes a party) on the last evening, to mark the end of the adventure As a guide, we recommend that each group member contributes around 5 to 10 % of your total trip cost. If you felt your guide was especially helpful, please consider an appropriate bonus to him or her of 20% of group tips.
Our prices are competitive and good value, and we offer quality, service, security and an ethical stance on tourism in a developing country. We don’t want to be so expensive to run fewer trips and have our staff idle, but on the other hand we believe that running cheap trips that promote the practice of skimming budgets would result in the porters getting next to nothing, which is something we cannot consider. Your porters work extremely hard to carry your gear, advance set ups and keep your journey safe and enjoyable, sometimes at their own risk and peril. We could not complete our journey without them. They have families, too, and we all want to have an enjoyable, rewarding expedition full of great memories! Tashi Delek!